The Gion Festival in Kyoto is a vibrant tapestry of sights, sounds, and scents. The streets are alive with the rhythmic clatter of wooden geta sandals on cobblestones, mingling with the distant, melodic hum of flutes and the steady beat of taiko drums. The air is thick with the sweet aroma of yakitori and the smoky scent of incense wafting from shrines. Lanterns glow softly, casting a warm, golden light that dances on the faces of the festival-goers, their colorful yukatas fluttering in the summer breeze. As you weave through the crowd, the taste of freshly made taiyaki lingers on your lips, while the joyous shouts of “Yoiyasa!” echo around you, immersing you in this centuries-old celebration.
Inuyarai
The inuyarai, a slanted lattice of wooden or bamboo slats, has been a hallmark of Kyoto’s streets for centuries, likely dating back to the Edo period (1603–1868). These protective barriers, often seen at the base of traditional machiya townhouses, were designed to shield homes from the grime of the narrow streets. When the rains came, the slats kept mud and water from splashing onto the delicate plaster walls, and deterred animals from soiling or scratching at the surfaces.
Beyond their practicality, the inuyarai reflects the refined aesthetic of Kyoto’s architecture, where natural materials and harmonious design reign. The scent of weathered wood and the soft creak of bamboo underfoot evoke a deep connection to the past. Walking through the streets of Kyoto, with these lattices lining the fronts of old homes, you sense the city’s careful preservation of its heritage—a nod to a time when the balance between beauty and function was paramount.
Initially, the house came with a cement inuyarai that came from an architectural movement I jokingly called “Kyoto-Brutalism.”
I had the idea of chipping off the edge and using the rest of the structure for support. If the inuyarai artist took any issue with this unconventional approach, he didn’t protest. Actually, it worked beautifully.
Fresh bamboo from Arashiyama was carefully trimmed to
We’re one step closer to restoring the traditional look of our machiya.
I Have Become A Ghost…
Kansai Airport is empty…it is the time of the pandemic. I haunt familiar places unnoticed. One of the world’s largest airports has become an apocalyptic wasteland.
My airline is practically the only thing open and there are people!
I should have known something was wrong on the train to the airport:
Arriving at the airport, the omiyage (お土産) at the ordinarily busy shops were undisturbed:
Taking the tram to the other terminal, I had become translucent.
What in the actual…
I don’t remember dying. I must have eaten some really bad fugu.
Thanksgiving In Kyoto
Finding turkey isn’t easy in Kyoto. Fortunately, we found a company in Nagoya that imports turkey (www.themeatguy.jp). This meant scheduling a delivery time and waiting at the house until it arrived, but it was worth it for a taste of home. Pies were made. Stuffing was consumed. A simpler, but satisfying way to give thanks for everything this year.
Benevolent Fire
I just received a copy of the book in which my poem “Benevolent Fire,” about the fall leaves at Tofukuji, is featured. Please consider supporting local Kyoto artists and writers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1099276438/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sakura In Kyoto
Springtime — when the sakura blossoms fall like large flakes of snow upon your feet.
Autumn In Kyoto
Chionin (知恩院)
You might have seen this temple’s impressive stairs in the movie The Last Samurai. The head temple of the Jōdo-shū, or Pure Land Sect, it was first constructed in 1234. Famous for its impressive Sanmon Gate (1619), Chionin is also where you can find Japan’s largest temple bell (1633), which weighs 74 tons and 17 people to sound it. And I thought the one near my house was loud.
As you walk on the wooden floor boards you might be surprised to discover that they make the same chirping sound you heard at Nijo castle. That’s so when the Tokugawa family visited they would be able to identify anyone coming to kill them. If you think that’s paranoid, ask Nobunaga.
During Autumn (November 2-30, 5:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., 800 yen), you can visit at night with the leaves illuminated. It’s also recommended that you stop by nearby Shoren-in Temple and Kiyomizudera which also have nighttime displays.
How Much: 300 yen
Hours: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., but no entry after 4 p.m.
How Do You Get There: Either take the Tozai subway to Higashiyama Station (15 minute walk) or take city bus 206 to the Chion-in-mae stop. Address is 400 Rinka-cho, Higashiyama-ku.
Note: Information is subject to change. Please verify details as they were only accurate when written, if that.